Tutorial: 3 Minute a model way to paint nidz

So, i had a couple of nid models left over and decided to experiment. They came out quite nice so I thought I'd do a little tutorial. The pics are in order so watch the slideshow from the beginning for step by step. The method is


Step 1: prime white (no pics).
Step 2: wash 'flesh' with any colour, I used green on one and red on the other.
Step 3: Paint shell grey (or another neutral colour).
Step 4: wash whole model devlan mud.
Step 5: Paint recesses in 'flesh', teeth, claws, edge of shells etc bleached bone and tongue purple.
Step 6: On bigger models add a few highlights (optional)
Step 7: Do any extra details (optional)

If you don't do step 6 and 7 then a normal gaunt with take around 3 minutes. Remember that a spray gun would be dead useful for stp 1, 2 and 4.





Go to ImageShack® to Create your own Slideshow

Thanks for reading,

Jacob

Battle reports: planning beforhand.

So, I am hoping to do my battle report soon and I thought I'd share my tips on planning.

1. Less is more with notes, I will be writing the BR as soon as I get back so I don't need to many notes. Just the really important bits need to be written down.
2. Think of a pic criteria for each turn, i will have a pic of the entire battlefield, a pic of the interesting events and any other pic that I want to take but keep that in mind and take notes from where you are taking pics of.
3. make sure your opponent is up for a BR as they add time to the game.
4. Get your opponent to help you out by writing his part of the tale down while you do.

So, just thought I'd share that with you. i have a question though. If you don't use picasa or another service like that how do you upload pic. I use blogger in draft and it won't let me upload any pictures at the moment!

Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Building/tutorial: Different ways to glue different materials together.

So, first off i must say that befor building any models you MUST take of the moul lines, I hate some of my old models for just this reason, the 3 different types of models I will be covering today are:

plastic kits
metal kits
wooden stuff (scenery)

Plastic kits: the glue to use nfor these are plastic glue/poly cement and they should go together really easily.

Metal kits: now this gets a little more complecated, small joints on metal models will require pinning which is where you drill a hole in the joint at both points and add a little greenstuff and superglue then put a pice of metal through it to hold the joint together. You can find loads of great tutorials for this online. For bigger contact points use superglue. remember, you should treat meatl/plastic combo kits as metal.

Wood: for this use PVA/white/elmers glue or wood glue, nice and simple but leave plenty of time to dry.

Tell us what you think, thnaks for reading,

Jacob

P.S. don't forget to check out my mate James's new blog!

Tutorials: Battle Report pt1, the components and layout.

So, time for pt 1 in a series of tutorials for writing battle reports.

Components:
Pictures: very important, they should tell the story whether through clever photoshopping or just clearness. not to many though or they will bog the post down.
Explanatory text: this goes under each picture explaining what is going on.
main body of text: this comes here and there telling the story of the report as a whole. these shoudl tell the main overview and the explanatory text the details.
fluff(optional): either at the start the end or tiny bits interjected in italics this is telling the'story'.

Layout: the report should come in a layout of something like this:

introduction:

turn 1
picture
explanation
overview

turn 2
picture
explanation
overview

etc

summary
picture
closing thoughts.

Now obviously that is very vague but it is a rough idea.

Tell us what you think and if i've missed anything,

Thanks for reading,

Jacob

Tutorials/Army Finishing Project: Sally squad finished and conversions on regular guys.

Hi, recently I have finished the 10 sallies, here are the pics:

If you look carefully at that last picture, you'll notice that the power fist is metal with blue and green washes, now this is my new theory for power weapons. It always says in fluff that they are sheathed in power so this wash gives that effect. All it is is thraka green and asurmen blue or watered down blue. On power swords and claws you would still do the power line as well of course. Now, here comes the tutorial:

Coverting regular guys is quite a rtecent thing. I've found though that just a few small conversions in a unit really makes it pop. Now if you look at my guy with bolt pistol and bolter, his strong pose really makes him look real, whereas the guys just holding bolters normaly stop the unit from looking over the top. So, I know that this isn't really a tutorial but just think next time you build regular guys, could I change that.

Now, onto the Army Finishing project standings, I am noow on 11 points.

TERRAN HANDS AND SALLIES

4pts 2 half done land speeders for terran hands, tutorial: not sure.
2pts LR-built-painted-needs some slight changes tutorial: repainting.
-2pts 5scouts- built tutorial: cloth
4pts Rhino-built-primered tutorial: getting nice flat colours and possibly line highlighting.
2pts Dread-needs some repairing and some redoing tutorial: adding to models.
5pts 5assault marines: built tutorial: adding the combat image.
1pts some reapir work. tutorial: probably none.
SPACE WOLVES Tutorials: not sure yet
3pts Drop pod-built
10pts 20 grey hunters- built
-1pts 5wolf scouts-built
3pts 4long fangs-built
4pts Whirlwind-half built
3pts 4wolf guard- built
2pts Rune priest- built
2pts 10 blood claws- need highlights

P.S. I have included the wolf guard joining units in that units cost.

Warriors Of Chaos
6pts 5knights- built-primerd-1 nearly done. tutorial:washes and magic

3pts warshrine-primered-more being added. tutorial: scratch building.
5pts 12 WoC- built primered. tutorial:adding to units maybe
3pts 12 WoC-need details. tutorial:fur
12pts 15 marauder cav- built tutorial: painting black skin maybe more
10pts 20 marauders- need details tutorial: wood
-4 Palanquin- built- partialy painted tutorial: intricate nurgle
-6 to do but +3 when done Lord on disk tutorial: probably fire
-3 odd dude from Games Day- built tutorial: random models.


Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: adding that extra bit (reedeemer).

So, here we are you tutorial loving people, pictures and a tutorial of the extra bits on the reedeemer. Here we go:

Firts we have writing, this is an eccelent was to add character, ty last tutorial was on how to do this!

Then there is free hand art. Now, I am no artist but I have done some devbout symbols etc then washed them out slightly with a mix of brown green and grey making them look like hand written scripts etc that have been there for days!

The next bit is killl markings and scripts, always writte a little squigly line on purity seals and on guns it is sometimes a good idea to write on kill markings (x's).

Here is another example, I have written Ts'Kar on it which is the drivers name. Hard to see I know.

Thats it people, what do you think, thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: Writing on tanks (11 pics).

Hi, Just thought I'd do the tutorial on how I did the writing on the sally rhinos, reme3mber this isa also a bpart of the army finishing project, here we go:

Step 1, placing: choose where on the model you want the writing, make sure to do this carefully as it is very important.

Step 2, draw it: Get a pice of paper and draw out what you want your writing to say, I called one of my rhinos Fire Drake and the other Carinus. Here is how I drew out Fire Drake.

Step3, paint 1: paint the letters carefully with only simple curls etc, make sure to print it and not join up as this will make it neater.

Step 4, paint 2: Paint on your other locations (I had 2).

Step 5, joining up: It's hard to see butb here I have carefully joined up the letters.

Here are the close-ups of my other tank so you can see the step by step again.

So, what do you think, like it. Do I need to improve anything. Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: 3 ways to paint Gold (sorry no pics).

Hi, Jacob here. Thought I would put up this tutorial that I have been planning for a while. Sorry for not posting yesterday, I went to this concert of children in need! I will be back on track from now on.

So number 1 to paint gold:

Base the area in Iyanden darksun
Paint a few layers of shining gold on
Wash with Devlan mud
highlight shining gold
optional highlight of gold mixed with mithril silver.

I have been using this method for a while but I think the other two might be better. Not tried the others as much yet.

Number 2 way to paint Gold:

Base Tallarn flesh
Paint on gold a few times
same highlighting as above.

This is just a simple swap of base colour. I need to try this out bhut it should work.

Number 3 way:

Base tin bitz
paint on gold a few times
same highlighting as above.

This way is what some of my mates at GW use. Not tried it yet.

So, what do you think. The second two methods I picked up from other people whereas I came up with the first one!

How do you do it and what do you think of my method. Tell us.

Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: How I paint pt1, Rank and file.

Ok, so today I would like to talk a little bit about how i paint my basic troops. Now, my first stage is always to prime them black as that is my chosen spray. then I start with one of the foundation paints, using the salamander above as an example I use ork hide shad, though knarloc green would also work. then i follow up with a couple of layers of my main colours. So in the example above, snot green. now i highlight. Now generally i only do 1 or 2 highlights, if only one then I would hit the sallies with scorpion green on the edges. if 2 then mix scorpion green with snot green 1:1 then hit the highest parts with scorpion green. Now, you can leave it there for the main part but I do have a little trick. WASHES, here is the interesting part , on my sallies i could just use thraka green but as I want them dirty i use devlan mud normally. That's about it for the main armor. if your painting models with less block spaces then I treat each space a a block. So I would paint the cloth with a similar method then paint the top then the boots etc.

Now it is a case of picking out details etc etc. later in this series then we will talk about different parts of models.

Please tell me what you think and whether you like this series. Also vote on the poll in the side bar.

Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: blood pt 2: 3D blood.

Hi, so this is my tutorial on doing 3D blood. I hope you like it.

First get a length of cotton, tie lots of knots in it (the more you tie the more manky it looks). Then paint blood red.
Next attach to the end of whatever your attaching it to with super glur and wala.

I'd like to take some time here to say that if you cut the thread up intod little its then attach it to one area then it can be 3D blood rather than 3D blood/hamstring on the end of something.

Thanks for reading,

Jacob.

Tutorials: How to paint blood, quick and simple.

Hi, todays tutorial is abput how to paint blood. Now remember, all of my tutorials are done on a basis of 'this won't give you amazing standards but will look like what it's supposed to, anyway along with my tutorial:

Before pic. I always like to let you see the guy before aswell as after.

It's hard to see but I have painted rd gore over where I want the blood to be.

Then finally highlight with blood red. If the cut is almost dry then you can leve more of the cut red gore. If there is a bit of a scab the use blck and highlight brown. This entire tecnique would look better over a larger area but this is what I had to work with.

Thanks everyone and please let me know if you think he looks better/worse after the blood.

Thanks for reading,

Jacob

Tutorials: What should I teach.

Hi, from the poll at the side I can see people are liking my tutorials. Now this post is not my content but more a question. I have a few ideas but what would you guys like me to do a tutorial on. If you have an idea on something that you struggle with then post and I will try and find a solution then post a tutorial on it. I want this blog to be a two way thing so please, post if yoy have an idea.

Tutorials: Tabards2, The writing/detail.

So, this time I am back with the second part of my tabards/scrolls etc tutorial which is the writing and detail. ther are lots of things you need to think about when you paint the writing onto a rabard I will run through them below the pic.

The first thing is colour. If you have done the parchmenty type thing from the last post then either red or black works well but if you have done a different colour more thought has to go into it.

Red goes with most things. Blood red is best i find. Blue can work for runes if you want them to glow but that is a tutorial in it's self. Black works well but on nparchment I preffer red for a more bloody look. For the guy above I chose black because I had a very deep red on the tabard, I think it worked quite well to be honest.

The second thing you need to think about is the balance between symbols and writing. I will give a few examples using dashes and punctuation to show you.

1 Standard)

-------------- --------------

------- --

-------------

-------

----------------

Withe the standard it is just line but you have to make shure that you have some variation though all of the log lines should be the same length.

2Standard with symbols (my favourite)

>>>>>'''!'''<<<<<>

---------------

--------
------------

---- --- --

,.

~#~
"

This version is the same as the standard but you have something at the top and some symbols around the bottom and sides. This is what I do most of the time.

Now onto the actuall how to bit. Most of this is about brush control. What I do is I get a very fine brush and have a practice on a bit of paper. the more you paint in this way the better you will get. So, when you learning you can just do something le and x at the top but if you want to go to town try and do a little immage. if you can do an aquila then you are going to find the easy. Anyway after the top symbol then do a long slightly squiggly li9ne and the top line of script, then either do another line the same length or one about half as long. keep repeating this process until you have enough script I reacon about 3-5 lines for a loin cloth and 6-8 for a tabard. After than you may want to add some extra symbols. You can do crosses x's or you can try and do images.

The only other thing you need to do is put it with some other guys and see if it looks good.

Thanks for reading I hope you found this useful. Makeshure you check out yesterdays guide on how to paint the parchment/tabard.

If you guys have any other tip then please comment away. I would really like to get some discussion going on this.

Thanks for reading.

Tutorials: How I paint parchment, tabards, scrolls etc. The easy way

Hi, when I was away I was painting my WIP marine squad and I had the parchment tabard thing to do so I thought I'd show you how I do my parchment.

1: Colours)The 3 main colours are: Tallarn flesh (base), Elf flesh (main colour) and Bleached bone (highlight) though other colours are used in the tutorial.

2: Base coat) Apply tallarn flesh over a black undercoat for a nice even base. Sory for the awful pic but you get the idea.

3: Main coat) This may take a few layers but make shure you get this stage right.
4: Highlight) Now just hit the hard edges with bleached bone, you can add white over multiple coats if you want multiple highlight staged but I just stick with straight bleached bone. It's quite hard to see in this pick but it makes all the difference.

5: optional: wash) Now this is where you have to make a desicion between aged or new. If you are going for a new scroll then skip this step but if you want an aged scroll (in my opinion the better option) then wash the whole thing heavly with the fantastic Devlan mud wash.

quick tip: the wash may pool or run into one side of the scroll. On this model I had to do 1 coat with him upside down and then another with him standing up to get a good coverage.

6: kind of optional: detail) Thia stage is kind of optional but it makes the tabard look a whole lot better. I have just done a bit of text and a couple of symbols using just a few colours.

Thanks for reading and I hope this is useful. Next i will be doing a tutorial on how to do that writing and symbols etc on tabards. Hope you come back.

Jacob out!